Perky's Floating Bar right in the heart of Queenstown Bay
The local tale goes something like this.
Long ago, before the promise of gold brought the gold rush, the Maori roamed the land, hunting for moa, greenstone and eels. According to legend, Lake Wakatipu rests in the trough formed by Matau's burning body, a giant taniwha who was defeated by Matakauri. Matakauri was a commoner who loved and rescued the chief's daughter, Manata, from the giant's fate.
It was our first visit to this magical part of Aotearoa and one that lived up to the local nickname of 'Peter Pan Land' for our honeymoon location.
To get our bearings, after exploring the inner city, we decided to get a view and work out where we were.
As the gondola rose up the mountain, there were few words to explain how beautiful this place is.
The summit boasts a lookout deck and the popular luge that gets your heart pumping. We opted for a gondola and two luge rides combo for $128, but two weren't enough, so we did add another at the top.
Baby mountain goats shrieked like demanding toddlers on the sideline which made for an even more memorable time there. The lights of Cardrona shone in the distance like a wonderland. After the sun went down we sat in the bar area and ordered hot chips and a rum - an affordable way to enjoy the restaurant if you are not in for a full meal.
If you are looking for more formal dining, there are packages that can be booked in advance, that include lunch or dinner and prices depend on where you want to sit to soak up the best views.
Going up in the afternoon and coming down over the night lights is a perfect way to experience Queenstown views by day and night.
In the early hours of the next morning, we were off to what turned out to be the greatest adventure of the week. We pre-booked a bus trip to Milford Sound for $300 on Book Me - a website offering discounts in the area for food, accommodation and activities.
Although a very long 12-hour day, we were guaranteed by many that this would be a worthwhile trip. The weather that day was the worst forecast for rain. Pondering whether we should transfer our ticket to a sunny day we decided to go ahead and I'm glad we did.
Sitting back, the commentary filled us in on the history of the area and the urban myths that we would have otherwise missed. Upon entering the most majestic part of the trip, the heavens opened and thunder and lightning smashed the valley.
Waterfalls appeared to be dropping out of the sky as the low clouds hovered over our path. Snow was still thick surrounding the road, we had to keep pinching ourselves if this place was actually real. The coach takes you right outside the cruise office and it's as easy as changing from bus to boat on the other side of the building.
A packed lunch was included in this trip and tea and coffee were complimentary on board. However, the waters seem to change dramatically every 15 minutes in the Sounds. From a calm cruise leaving the wharf, to holding on to coffee cups and screaming in exhilaration, this trip kept us on our toes.
Being from Northland, we began our trip a bit precious to the cold, however, our wild spirits couldn't be dampened as the boat approached the waterfalls and backed the top deck underneath the freezing cold water.
Knowing it would be a bad idea later, a few of us braved the icy water and experienced the trip in all its entirety. There are only a few moments in life that pause time in a magical way, and this was one of them - definitely a bucket list priority.
Public buses were our main choice of transport during our stay. Eight days and numerous trips varying in length, we spent under $40 on getting around. It also means you can enjoy that last glass of bubbles!
One of our days, however, was via push bike instead. There is a cycleway on the edge of the lake that is breathtaking and has easy flat terrain. Still wearing thermals under our clothes each day, the key is layers in the South and it's much more enjoyable wearing gloves while pedalling along.
This way, we rode through the botanical gardens and right into town for the best hot chocolate at The Bathhouse on Marine Parade. If riding back towards Frankton, there is a little cafe called the Boat Shed that sells fresh scones. You can sit over the water next to a marina, taking in the breathtaking views.
Arrowtown was next on our list, we took a bus from outside our comfortable stay at Holiday Inn ($1 each) getting us to the area in about 20 minutes.
We took a slow stroll through the Chinese settlement in awe of the bravery these people showed, coming out in the gold rush time and enduring harsh conditions, as well as the racism that was shown to them. Two very different communities resided here, the Chinese and European. It is clear who lived the more modest lifestyle.
Take your time to read the signs as you walk through this old mining community. The temperature was much colder here in the shade, ice crystallised the puddles and soon we were nursing coffees to get the blood pumping again.
To see this area from what it really has to offer, it is worth a wander around the surrounding lanes as well as a walk or even better, a ride beside the Arrowtown river.
We met Meg at Better by Bike, hired a couple of electric bikes and were on our way. Riding over high swing bridges and weaving along the waterway past AJ Hacket Bungy we arrived at Gibbston Valley Winery for a cheese platter and a paddle of wine. It makes for a fun bike ride home.
The Fork and Tap were playing live music when we returned to Arrowtown, so we made the most of waiting until the next bus back to Queenstown by nursing a mulled wine and tapping our feet.
Unfortunately this time of year between June and July the historic Earnslaw steamboat is out of action for repair, a 1912 Edwardian steamer, the oldest tourist attraction in Central Otago. So instead, we grabbed the replacement vessel to the Walter Peak Farm barbeque lunch instead, for $200. Not quite the same half-hour cruise, but the experience at the station was worth it.
Upon arrival, we were taken to a sheep rounding show with the enthusiastic farm dogs. The barbeque meat lunch buffet was decadent. Most of the ingredients are sourced from the area with names like, 'fallen seed salad'. The grand old villa stands proud on the shore, animals grazing in the paddocks and manicured rose gardens entertain the guests with their yesteryear beauty.
Back in town, the Below 5 Ice Bar is worth ticking off. Again, these tickets can be found online a bit cheaper and include entry and a cocktail for $16 each, instead of $35.
Drinking out of ice glasses and quote, "where everything is on the rocks" makes for an entertaining experience.
The cocktails were delicious and a talking point to see how long you can last in a -9 degree bar. Proud to say that these Northlanders were once again the last ones standing after the hour.
Warm up with a couple's meal deal at Winnie's Pizza or jump on the Sushi Train for a fun dining experience. For dessert, you can't go past trying a hot Cookie Time Cookie and giggling at all the adults reminiscing about their childhood.
Enjoy a chilled drink onboard Perky's Floating Bar, where you can bring your own food and dine in the relaxing swaying of the moored boat. Then maybe on a night you are feeling patient, stand in the famous Fergburger line - yes the burgers are worth the wait, and the lines do move pretty fast.
On a last-minute whim, we stumbled upon The Lord of the Rings Glenorchy Tour at around $180 each. Having missed the Remarkables mountain bus (that you will need to pre-buy a card to travel up on) we were minutes off the next departure to 'Paradise', also known as Middle-earth. This destination was on our list, however, it is unreachable by the main bus system and we didn't have a car. Not die-hard fans ourselves, we still had an enjoyable trip with others that were, mixed together with belly laughs with the driver Joel.
The Pure Glenorchy Scenic Film Location Tours have the sole right to enter some of the main areas where Middle Earth was filmed. We were left speechless trying to describe the sheer beauty and magic of this part of our untouched country - although pricey, it was money well spent.
They say, Matau's ever-beating heart, the only part of him remaining, is under Pigeon Island near Paradise, causing the lake to rise and fall rhythmically.
If you are up for the adventure, new experiences and making the most of spell-bounding opportunities, you will experience a love affair with Queenstown and yearn to return to the sleeping giant's heartbeat.